Pentapeptide-18
Skin & Hairaka Leuphasyl · Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu · Pentapeptide-3 (older INCI name in original Lipotec dossier)
Overview
Pentapeptide-18 (trade name Leuphasyl) is a cosmetic anti-wrinkle peptide with the sequence Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu, marketed as an enkephalin-mimetic. The original Lipotec dossier used the older proposed INCI name "Pentapeptide-3", a nomenclature inconsistency worth flagging — the molecule is the same.
Mechanism
The mechanistic concept, per the Lipotec technical dossier, is that Leuphasyl couples to enkephalin receptors on the external surface of nerve cells, reducing neuronal excitability and modulating acetylcholine release. In vitro testing on neuronal cultures used glutamate release as a proxy for acetylcholine release. At 1 mM, Leuphasyl inhibited glutamate release by 13% versus 20% for Argireline and 35% for the combination, compared with 65% for botulinum toxin A at 0.0001 mM. The mechanistic claim is plausible as a neuromodulatory cosmetic concept but not equivalent to clinical botulinum pharmacology.